Tour Diary: Fresno, CA & Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks
Tour Diary: Fresno, CA & Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks
More lush greenery, massive redwoods, the freshest of air, and the best company I could ask for.
I was awake terribly early at the Oakhurst Inn on Tuesday morning. Our time in Yosemite the day prior had left me filled with awe and reflection. I got up as quietly as possible so as to let Ama continue to sleep. Pulling out the laptop, I whiled away a couple of hours working on the blog and plotting our visit to Sequoia and Kings Canyon.
Ama awoke and got ready before 7:00. She read and played word games while I continued to work. We enjoyed coffee and continued our muted beginning to the day until just after 8:00 when we hopped in the car and bid adieu to Oakhurst and Yosemite.
The two hour drive to the western entrance of Kings Canyon National Park was mountainous, sunlit, and lovely. Aretha pulled into the western entrance at just about 10:00 am. I steered her into a spot at the ranger’s station and we went in to snag a map, ask few questions, and get my National Parks passport stamped.
A very kind young ranger showed us the lay of the land and offered some advice on what to do with a half of a day in the parks. Most of Kings Canyon was being affected by wildfires, so the normally gorgeous view of the Canyon was shrouded in smoke and haze from the fires. As such, our ranger suggested we focus on the areas in and around Sequoia for the day.
Back inside Aretha, Ama and I maneuvered slowly across the twisting mountain roads and made our way up to the main entrance of Sequoia. Along the trek, we glimpsed massive redwoods, enormous sequoias, verdant pine forests, cedar groves, birch trees, and more. The California morning poured in through the open driver side window and we simply absorbed in the breathtaking scenery.
For her part, Ama already felt more at home in Sequoia than she had in Yosemite. Of course, Yosemite left her awed and wowed by its beauty, but the terrain and jagged mountain peaks can be foreboding and even ominous to some. While Ama could easily sense the beauty and majesty of Yosemite and the Valley, she did not find a true calm within it. At Sequoia, the soft forest floor, the smell of the cedar and pines, and the dappled sunshine of a walk through the trees found her feeling more at home. Later in the day, she would declare herself much more of a forest person than a mountain person. As a Michigander, I totally get it.
At the area around the tree named for General Grant, we exited Aretha and set out on foot for a nice, long walk. Occasionally, we would catch glimpses of the nearby mountain peaks between the trees. The sun pocked the forest floor in spaces that led to ten degree temperature swings between sun and shade. Making our way around to the back area of the trail, we came upon the massive chunk of living wood named for General Ulysses S. Grant. It is said to be the third largest tree in the world by volume. It is also estimated to be more than 1,600 years old.
Standing in its shadow, we listened for a few minutes as a tour guide told a tour group a bit of the history behind the tree and the way in which it has managed to survive myriad wildfires that have ravaged the nearby landscape over the last fifteen centuries. Craning our necks almost as far back as they could go, we managed to take in the top of the gargantuan sequoia before heading further down the path.
Our day was quite simply, a walk in the woods. At various points, we left Aretha safely at the roadside or in parking lots so that we could explore the area on foot. We traipsed a 1.5 mile trail out to a lookout point to catch a glimpse of Morro Rock. While the view of the mountain was lovely, the trip back and forth provided the real joy of the hike. We encountered boulder formations left by glaciers, groves of gorgeous trees, and listened to the birds chatting in the afternoon sun, all backed by the brilliant blue of a crystal clear California sky.
Unless you have found yourself at the foot of a giant redwood or sequoia, it is impossible to imagine their sheer immensity and heft. It becomes so very difficult to summon the proper words to describe the beauty, majesty, and overwhelming size of these trees. To spend the day walking amongst them would be a treat under any circumstances. To be able to share them with my mother brought a new level of gratitude.
During the rest of or time in Sequoia we availed ourselves of yet more serene walks, the lush greenery, terrifically huge trees, and a wide swath of peace and quiet. As we jumped in Aretha to make our exit from the parks, a low afternoon sun hung to the west and we headed to find a spot for toddy. Exiting the southern end of Sequoia we looked for another vintage inn or lodge where we might find an elegant spot to wash down a beer or a gin and tonic.
The vast majority of bars and restaurants were closed, either because it was a Tuesday afternoon, or they had already closed up shop for the season. Driving on, we thought perhaps we’d find a good option along the way, but nothing very appealing appeared as we made the 80 minute drive to Fresno where I would be playing the next night.
Unable to find a suitable spot for a toddy, I suggested we make our way to the venue I’d be playing. We could snag a drink and I could confirm details for the next night. As we pulled up in front of Goldstein’s Mortuary & Delicatessen, I was a bit shaky having been thwarted at the altar three times already on this tour.
I went in to introduce myself and get a sense of the place. The location had at one time been both a funeral home and a deli, but, as the bar claims now, “No Bodies. No Pastrami. Just Beer.” The space was large and open. Huge glass windows opened out to the street and the vaulted ceiling made the large room appear even bigger than it already was.
Extending a hand, I said hello the Orion, the bartender and made firm plans for load-in, set times, and tech details for the show. I felt a sense of relief knowing that the gig was still on and that we had things in great shape for the next night.
Ama and I enjoyed a beer at a two top along the wall across from the bar. We sat back to take in the eclectic decor around the joint. Half of a speed boat jutted from the wall facing the street to separate the door and entry from the stage area. Above the stage were a diving board, a carousel horse, an inflatable octopus and a series of other tchotchkes.
Goldstein’s is a dive bar in the best sense of the word. They do beer and music, that’s it. You want something else, you go find a different spot. I thanked Orion for his help and the beer. After a quick search, Ama and I were headed off to a local Travelodge to rest our bones for the night.
In the morning, we both managed to sleep until a reasonable-ish hour. I grabbed coffee from the lobby for us. I worked while Ama read. Knowing that we had the whole day before I had to load-in at Goldstein’s, we took our time and enjoyed a very lazy morning.
We checked out of the hotel just before 11:00 and left Aretha safely in the gated parking lot while we went out to explore Fresno on foot. While I had already heard Fresno described as the “armpit of California”, I was sure that we could find something worthwhile in the city to occupy our time.
I found an area marked as the Mural District on the map. We headed out towards the downtown area on foot as the temps began to rise. Our stroll to downtown was filled with municipal buildings, and newer businesses and restaurants occupying uninteresting brick buildings. The area between the Travelodge and downtown felt recently gentrified but in a very vanilla sort of way.
We strolled along the city’s main park out in front of the courthouse building, a sleek, modern structure that juts into the sky high above the park. As we continued towards the mural district, we noticed a pair of old movie houses that featured gorgeous neon marquees. The box office at the Wilson Theater had also been very well preserved and we stopped to gawk at the faded palace.
Foot traffic began to fade away as we worked our way over the final few blocks to the area marked as the mural district. On our left, we spied a lovely mural touting the city’s diversity. Its colorful design filled the exterior of a disused warehouse building, and brought a much needed pop of color to the street. Sadly, that was all of the evidence we could find of a mural district. I tried further searches but sketchy service prevented me form learning the full details. Turning back to the direction from which we had come, we decided to venture off to find Chinatown and lunch.
Leaving the downtown area, we hoofed a fairly long way to the area where we expected Chinatown to be, however we found it no easier to locate than the mural district. Exploring a few blocks further, we realized we had stumbled upon a Chinatown that once was. A series of restaurants, produce vendors, department stores, and shops sat empty. The streets were filled with debris. Construction equipment doing road repairs in the area made up for the only other people for blocks at a time.
In need of lunch and disappointed at the dearth of open options, Ama and I slid into a family owned Mexican joint where the local construction workers were also getting their midday meal. The server was a middle aged woman who smiled as she took our order. I savored my ice cold can of Coca Cola and was glad to be resting my weary legs after a long walk on the city streets of Fresno.
Our carne asada burrito was slightly better than our pair of previous Mexican meals that had ended in disappointment, however it was nothing special. We thanked the server and chef as we made our way to the door and we began the stroll back toward Aretha and finding a way to fill the afternoon before my nighttime shift at Goldstein’s.
On the walk home, we noticed a few charming touches to downtown Fresno. The Greyhound sign from the original bus station has been beautifully preserved. There are any number of vintage movie houses and vaudeville theaters that have survived, a couple have been renovated and are in use for concerts and live shows. We also passed a few interesting shops offering vintage goods, wigs, and handmade soaps.
Once back in Aretha, I set the GPS for the Shinzen Garden at Woodward Park just outside of the city. As we navigated the short drive, the sky began to fill with a series of clouds that portended rain. Droplets began to fall in sporadic fashion as I eased Aretha into a parking spot near a trailhead. In lieu of worrying about the possibility of impending rain fall, we opted to just rest for a bit after our active morning and midday.
While I attempted to nap, various school buses arrived dumping off loads of middle school kids for a track meet. Despite the hubbub and the attendant noise, I managed to snag 40 winks while Ama entertained herself with a book, never feeling tired enough to sleep.
The clouds cleared as the noisy tweens competed above us in the park grounds. Having rested for a smidge, we set off to find a spot for toddy. I searched for a place with a pool table to find a spot called The Bog House Pub. Eight minutes later we arrived at a nondescript strip mall and a cute little pub tucked into the corner unit.
A smiling server welcomed us into the empty barroom and asked what we were drinking. I ordered a Hofrbrau Oktoberfest Lager and Ama opted for a glass of riesling. We sipped our drinks and I mentioned to Ama that I did not see a pool table. I am always a little mystified at the way Google results work, but whatever. We enjoyed our drinks, and chatted with the charming bartender with her delightful British accent. The bar filled up as we emptied our glasses and we made our way to the door.
I searched for “Fresno Cocktail Bars’ and found a place called The Office. I set the GPS and allowed Aretha and Apple Maps to lead the way. As soon as we arrived at The Office I was certain we we’d been led astray once again. Peeking our heads in to the dimly lit room, it was easy to see that The Office was as much a “cocktail bar” as The Bog House had been a billiard hall. They did however, have a pool table.
Ama and I sidled up the bar and each ordered a bottle of Mexican beer with salt and lime. A few locals laughed loudly and chatted with one another while the National League Championship Series featuring the Dodgers and Mets played on the TV above the bar. We sat on our stools and enjoyed the baseball game with no fierce attachment. While I hoped for a Mets victory over the mighty Dodgers, I was happy just to take in the sights of the game while enjoying a cold beer on a weekday afternoon.
As we ordered our second round, Mets’ shortstop Francisco Lindor made a dazzling play, diving to backhand a hard hit ground ball. After making the miraculous snag while fully outstretched, Lindor managed to jump back to his feet and deliver a strike to the first baseman for an out. It was a beautiful play and one of my favorite things to watch in a baseball game, especially a high stakes game like an NLCS contest. Ama and I sat and enjoyed the glory of the game we call our National Pastime.
By the time I had emptied my second Dos Equis it was time to head to Goldstein’s and prep for the show. I found a spot directly in front of the door and thanked the indie-rock Gods for the good fortune of a primo load-in spot. Within a few trips, I had all of my gear inside and had set up everything that I could before my sound man for the evening arrived.
With my prep work done until showtime, Ama and I headed back out for a walk in the Fresno evening. Down the street form Goldstein’s a crowd formed outside the Tower Theatre, one of the beautiful old movie houses that’s been renovated and reopened in the city. I took in the neon marquee and the large, neon caped tower that shoots above the building, and gives the Tower District, the neighborhood surrounding the theater, its name.
Further down the street, Ama and I stepped into a charming tea house and ordered a pair of drinks. We sat at a street side table and savored our drinks until it was time for me to head back to Goldstein’s and see if my sound guy had arrived for the night. Shortly after we arrived back at the bar, Carlos came in and introduced himself as my sound man for the evening. We went through a quick check and got things ready to go.
The crowd at Goldstein’s skewed fairy young, very young compared to my typical demographic. Their seems to be a hub for younger, hip folks in the area looking for a happy hour beer or catching up with friends. During my two sets, the crowd was appreciative and even attentive at times. Despite being old enough to be the Father of most of the patrons, a number of attendees zeroed in on my songs and stories.
During the set break, a very kind young couple came up to chat me with me and my mother. She shared how much she appreciated the story I told about my oldest daughter moving out west, and how it had moved her to tears. These are the moments I cherish as a songwriter and performer. I love the idea that each night I can reach just a few people in a meaningful way through my songs. They thanked me for coming to town all the way from Michigan, and made their way out into the Fresno night.
After a rousing and well received second set, Ama helped me pack up my gear and we loaded up Aretha for the drive south toward Los Angeles. Driving south, we hoped to find something for a late night meal. My set had ended at 11:00 and by the time we were loaded up and hit the highway it was already midnight. We pulled off of the highway to find three different McDonald’s franchises closed already, and we happened up an In-N-Out Burger at 1:03 am, just three minutes after last call.
Just before 2:00 am, I begrudgingly exited the highway to grab a meal at Denny’s. We ordered a pair of hamburgers and Cokes to go and the ferried the meals across the parking lot to the nearby hotel where we planned to spend the night. Once in the room, the burger was surprisingly delicious, probably due to our ravenous appetites. With bellies full, and sleep fast approaching, we turned out the lights to dream sweet dreams of our next stop; Hollywood.
Cheers,
Matty C
<looks at the pictures in this post>
<immediately adds Sequoia National Park to bucket list>